How to Properly Jack Up a Vehicle | Rules That Prevent Disaster

To safely jack up a vehicle, park on level concrete, chock the opposite wheel, lift at the designated point, and always use jack stands before working underneath.

The difference between a routine tire change and a trip to the ER is knowing how to properly jack up a vehicle. It requires three non-negotiables: a level concrete surface, the manufacturer’s designated lift point, and jack stands rated for the vehicle’s weight. Skip any one and the car can shift, fall, or damage itself. The procedure is straightforward, but every step exists to avoid danger.

Where To Place The Jack On Your Vehicle

Most cars have reinforced jack points behind the front tires or in front of the rear tires, near the rocker panels, often marked by a notch in the pinch weld. Consult your owner’s manual; lifting on suspension components, oil pans, or body panels can cause damage or collapse. If using pinch welds, place a rubber pad or adapter between the jack saddle and the metal to prevent crushing the weld.

How To Jack Up A Car — Step By Step

Follow this sequence every time. For a detailed walkthrough, AutoZone’s jacking guide provides clear diagrams.

1. Prepare the area. Park on hard, level concrete — never asphalt, especially on hot days. Engage the parking brake and put the transmission in Park (or First Gear for manual vehicles).

2. Chock the wheels. Place a wheel chock under the tire at the opposite diagonal corner from where you’re lifting. If raising the right front, chock the left rear.

3. Position the jack. Center the jack saddle under the designated lift point, aligned straight up and down. For a scissor jack, turn the screw clockwise; for a hydraulic floor jack, pump the handle to raise the saddle.

4. Lift slowly. Raise the vehicle steadily, watching that it stays level. Stop immediately if it shifts — lower, reposition, and try again. Lift until the tire just clears the ground.

5. Install jack stands. Before putting any part of your body under the vehicle, place jack stands under reinforced points (frame rail, axle, or control arms) near the jack. Lower the jack slowly until the vehicle rests on the stands, then perform a “shake test” to confirm stability.

6. Lower the vehicle. Raise it slightly with the jack to remove the stands, then gradually lower it. Remove wheel chocks only after the vehicle is fully on the ground.

For a more stable setup, a quality hydraulic floor jack is safer than a factory scissor jack. Our tested picks for home garage jacks cover the best options for different weight and budgets.

What Happens If You Ignore Jack Safety?

Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack is the most common cause of jack-related injuries — the jack can shift, sink, or fail without warning. Jack stands are not optional. Always inspect your scissor jack for rust or degraded rubber. Obey the 80% rule: never exceed 80% of the jack’s maximum load or stroke rating. Other mistakes include lifting on asphalt, overextending the jack beyond its rated height, and using stands that don’t match the vehicle’s weight. Never mix unmatched jack stands. Follow the sequence every time: prepare, chock, lift, support, then work. Reverse it to come down.

FAQs

Can I jack up a car on an uneven driveway?

No. Jacking on an uneven surface shifts the load off-center and increases the risk of slipping. Park on the flattest, hardest concrete available. If the ground is sloped, use leveling ramps first.

Do I really need jack stands for a quick tire change?

Yes. A jack alone can fail from a hydraulic leak or worn seal — even if the vehicle is raised for only a minute. Jack stands are cheap and take seconds to install. There is no safe shortcut.

Why do some cars have pinch welds instead of flat jack points?

Pinch welds are common on unibody vehicles because the welded seam is structurally reinforced. Use a rubber pad or adapter to prevent crushing the weld. Aftermarket jack pads cost under ten dollars and prevent permanent damage.