How to Install Lift Kit on F150? | Tools, Steps & Torque Specs

An F-150 lift kit install requires jacking the truck, removing struts and control arms, mounting spacers or blocks, and precise torquing. Steps vary by year and lift height.

The job involves raising the truck, removing factory suspension parts, mounting lift spacers or blocks, and torquing every fastener to spec. How to install lift kit on F150 varies by model year and lift height, but the core sequence stays consistent. Whether you’re fitting a 2-inch leveling kit or a 6-inch suspension system, the same basic steps apply.

What Tools and Parts Do You Need?

Your model year, drive type (2WD or 4WD), and target lift height determine which kit fits. Lift heights range from 2-inch leveling kits that reduce front rake up to 6-inch full suspension systems. Body lift block quantity varies: 5.5-foot and 6.5-foot beds need four mounts, while 8-foot beds need six.

Confirm your kit matches your truck. Kits for 2015–2020, 2021–2024, and 2025 models have different suspension geometries. If you’re still choosing, our picks for the best F-150 lift kit can help.

The Installation Process Step by Step

Phase 1: Vehicle Preparation. Chock the rear wheels, jack up the front, and place jack stands on the frame rails. Remove wheels with a 21mm socket. For 2015–2020 models, disconnect the EPAS (Electronic Power Assist Steering) plugs near the front differential before starting—skipping this can damage the steering system.

Phase 2: Front Suspension Removal. Remove the skid plate with a 13mm socket. Disconnect the sway bar link and tie rod from the knuckle using a 21mm socket. Remove the three 15mm nuts securing the strut top. Pull the axle nut—remove the dust cap first, then the 13mm nut. Remove the strut-to-lower-control-arm nuts and loosen the 27mm lower control arm nuts (do not remove them). Lower the control arm to free the strut assembly, watching brake line tension. The Rough Country installation guide covers this in detail for 2015 4WD trucks.

Phase 3: Lift Component Installation. Install the spacer or puck on the strut—it only fits one way.

Phase 4: Reassembly and Torque. Reconnect the ball joint to the spindle using a pry bar. Reinstall the strut, tie rod, and sway bar link. Tighten the 27mm lower control arm nuts only after wheels are on and truck is on the ground—prevents binding.

Common Mistakes and Safety Tips That Matter

• EPAS plugs (2015–2020): Forgetting to disconnect them can destroy the steering system—the most commonly missed step.
• Brake line tension: When lowering the control arm, disconnect vacuum or brake lines first for slack. Snagging can cause brake failure.
• Torque specs are not optional: Always use a torque wrench.
• Stud burning: If using a torch on strut studs, point flame away from the rubber bushing inside the strut bottom. Burning it ruins the strut.
• Cab alignment: After installing body lift blocks, check that the cab hasn’t shifted on the frame. Align it if necessary.
• Professional alignment required: A lift changes suspension geometry. Driving without an alignment causes rapid uneven tire wear and steering issues—get one immediately after install.

FAQs

Can I install a lift kit myself?

Yes, if you have mechanical experience and the right tools—a torque wrench, jack stands, and full socket set. First-timers should plan for a full weekend with a helper. Kits under 4 inches are more manageable than 6-inch systems.

Do I need an alignment after installing a lift kit?

Yes, absolutely. Lifting changes suspension geometry; driving without an alignment causes rapid uneven tire wear and poor steering.

What’s the difference between a leveling kit and a lift kit?

A leveling kit (typically 2 to 2.5 inches) raises only the front to match rear ride height, removing factory rake. A lift kit (3 to 6 inches) raises the entire truck using spacers, blocks, and sometimes new control arms for greater ground and tire clearance.