Storing a car properly requires cleaning it, protecting the battery and fluids, and keeping it off the parking brake in a dry, secure space.
Putting a car away for a few months or longer takes more than parking it in a garage. A little preparation prevents dead batteries, flat-spotted tires, rodent damage, and rust that can turn a simple storage task into a costly repair job. This guide covers the steps that matter, the common mistakes to avoid, and what to check before you drive it again.
Where Should You Store the Car?
The best location is a secure, dry indoor garage or storage unit. This protects the car from sun, rain, and temperature swings that accelerate wear. If an indoor space is not available, use a weatherproof car cover and try to limit exposure to moisture and pests as much as possible.
Whatever space you choose, make sure it is clean and dry before the car goes in.
How Do You Prepare the Car Before Storage?
Preparation is a balance of protection and common sense. The exact steps depend on how long the car will sit, but the core routine below applies to anything beyond a month of storage.
- Clean everything. Wash and dry the exterior thoroughly, including the undercarriage if it has been exposed to salt or mud. Inside, remove all food, trash, and organic debris. Leftover crumbs attract rodents, and trapped moisture leads to mold and corrosion.
- Service the fluids. An oil change before storage removes contaminants that can damage the engine over time. Check the coolant and brake fluid levels as well. For fuel, guidance differs: some sources recommend a full tank with stabilizer, while others suggest just a few gallons plus stabilizer to keep it fresh. Popular Mechanics notes that a full tank prevents condensation, but the recommendation is not universal. Fuel advice is variable, so check your owner’s manual and consider your local climate.
- Protect the battery. The most common storage failure is a dead battery. Kelley Blue Book recommends either disconnecting the negative terminal with the ignition off, or connecting a battery maintainer, also called a float or trickle charger. Letting a battery sit discharged can lead to sulfation, which shortens its life.
- Protect the tires and brakes. Inflate the tires to the recommended pressure, which you will find on the sticker inside the driver’s door frame. Do not engage the parking brake. Leaving it on for months can cause the brake pads to fuse to the rotors. For multi-year storage, some guides suggest placing the car on properly rated jack stands to prevent flat spots, though this is not required for typical seasonal storage.
- Block pests and moisture. Cover the car with a breathable cover. Popular Mechanics also suggests laying plastic sheeting or a tarp on concrete or earth floors as a vapor barrier. You can cover the tailpipe and air intake to keep rodents out, but only once the engine is completely cool. Remove any coverings before you start the car again. Add repellents or moisture absorbers inside if pests are a known issue in your area.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Most storage damage comes from a handful of avoidable errors. Kelley Blue Book and Edmunds both highlight the same culprits.
- Leaving food or trash inside, which attracts rodents.
- Storing a dirty or wet car, which traps moisture and accelerates corrosion.
- Setting the parking brake and forgetting it, which can fuse the brake components.
- Ignoring the battery, leading to deep discharge or sulfation.
- Storing with underinflated tires, which increases the risk of flat spots.
- Failing to remove intake or exhaust blockages before starting the engine.
What Should You Do Before Driving the Car Again?
Bringing the car back to service is the reverse of the prep routine. Edmunds advises checking for rodent damage under the hood before anything else. Then, remove any intake or exhaust covers and reconnect the battery cable if you disconnected it. Check tire pressure, fluid levels, belts, and wipers before your first drive. If you used jack stands, lower the car safely before starting.
For electric vehicles, the guidance is different. Kelley Blue Book says to leave the battery between 40% and 60% charge and enable the car’s storage mode if it has one. This prevents the battery from sitting at a full or empty state, which is harder on the cells over time.
If you plan to store a car for an extended period, consider a car bubble system to protect the paint and interior from dust and moisture.
References & Sources
- Kelley Blue Book. “Car Storage: What to Know.” Covers battery disconnection, EV storage at 40–60% charge, and common storage mistakes.
- Edmunds. “How to Prep Your Car for Long-Term Storage.” Details the return-to-service checklist, including rodent checks and reconnecting the battery.
- Popular Mechanics. “How to Store a Car for the Winter.” Explains the floor vapor barrier technique and battery maintenance with a float charger.
