How to Change Brake Pads on Honda Civic 2008 | DIY Brake Job

Replacing brake pads on a 2008 Honda Civic takes basic tools and about two hours, with separate steps for front and rear axles.

Knowing how to change brake pads on a Honda Civic 2008 can save hundreds in labor costs. The 8th generation Civic uses disc brakes on all four wheels, and the procedure is the same for Sedan and Coupe models. The rear brakes have one critical difference — opening the bleeder screw before compressing the piston protects the ABS module from damage.

What Tools Do You Need?

Gather a 12mm socket for caliper bolts, a 14mm box wrench for rear caliper bracket bolts, a 19mm wrench or socket for lug nuts and the rear caliper nut, a 10mm wrench for the bleeder valve, a brake caliper compressor or C-clamp, brake cleaner, silicone grease, a torque wrench, jack stands, wheel chocks, and safety glasses.

You’ll also need replacement pads. Our tested roundup of best 08 Honda Civic brake pads covers the top options for both standard and Si models.

Front Brake Pad Replacement

Loosen the lug nuts while the car is on the ground, then jack up the vehicle and secure it on jack stands. Remove the wheel. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver between the caliper and rotor to pry the piston back slightly — this creates clearance for removal.

Remove the two 12mm bolts on the back of the caliper; if they spin, hold the rear nut with a 19mm wrench. Slide the caliper up and off the rotor, then support it with a bungee cord or hook. Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose — this can damage the line. Slide the old pads out of the bracket. The pad with the wear indicator goes on the inside when reinstalling.

Clean the hub and rotor contact surface with brake cleaner and a wire brush, then apply anti-seize to the hub. Apply silicone grease to the new pad’s metal tabs and the back of each pad. Install the inner pad first with the wear indicator facing inward. Position the caliper over the new pads, insert both 12mm bolts, and torque them to 25 ft-lbs.

Reinstall the wheel, lower the vehicle, and pump the brake pedal 5–6 times until firm. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir before moving to the rear axle.

Rear Brake Pad Replacement

The rear brakes share the same basic process as the front, with one critical difference. Remove the rear wheel and secure the vehicle on jack stands at the rear tow-hook points. Remove the two 12mm caliper mounting bolts (hold the top nut with a 17mm wrench if the bolt spins).

Slide out the old pads. Clean the slide shims and guide pins with a flat screwdriver, apply fresh silicone grease to the pins, and reinstall them. Grease the new pad’s contact points and install the inner pad with the wear indicator facing inward.

Reinstall the caliper. Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs in a crisscross pattern. Pump the pedal until firm, verify the fluid level, and repeat on the opposite side if both axles need pads.

This ensures proper friction contact and extends pad life.

FAQs

Do I need to replace the rotors when changing brake pads?

Not always, but if the rotors are heavily scored, warped, or below minimum thickness, replacement is recommended. A quick check — if you feel a deep groove or a ridge at the rotor’s edge, it’s time to replace or resurface them. New pads on worn rotors will wear unevenly and reduce stopping power.

Why must the bleeder screw be opened on rear brakes but not the front?

The rear caliper houses the parking brake mechanism. Compressing the rear piston without opening the bleeder can force contaminated fluid backward into the ABS module, causing permanent and expensive damage. Front brakes present no such risk, so the piston can be compressed directly without opening the bleeder.

How do you break in new brake pads after installation?

References & Sources

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