2008 Honda Accord Timing Belt Replacement | V6 Service Guide

The 2008 Accord’s 3.5L V6 requires timing belt replacement at 105,000 miles, while the 2.4L four-cylinder uses a maintenance-free timing chain.

If you own the V6 (EX, EX-L, or Touring trims), the timing belt is a scheduled item at 105,000 miles — and the dashboard will show a B4 maintenance code when it’s due. If you have the 4-cylinder (Base, LX, or Sport), no timing belt replacement is needed: that engine uses a timing chain designed for the life of the engine. Getting this distinction wrong is the most expensive mistake on this platform.

Which 2008 Accord Engines Need A Timing Belt?

Only the 3.5L V6 i-VTEC (J35 series) needs a timing belt. This engine came in the EX, EX-L, and Touring trims of the 8th-generation Accord (2008–2012). The recommended replacement interval is 105,000 miles — not the older 60,000- to 90,000-mile ranges some shops still quote. The 2.4L four-cylinder (K24 series) in Base, LX, and Sport trims uses a timing chain and requires no periodic belt service. If you’re unsure which engine you have, check the emissions label under the hood or decode your VIN — the eighth character tells you the engine code.

Parts Required For A 2008 Accord V6 Timing Belt Job

The genuine OEM timing belt is part number 14400-P8A-A01 (supersedes 14400-P8F-A01). A complete timing belt kit — which includes the belt, tensioner, idler pulley, and water pump — is the smarter buy than a belt alone. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, and if it fails later, you’ll pay for the same labor all over again. Aftermarket kits from Dayco, Aisin, and Gates are widely used and reliable. For a detailed comparison of the best options available, check out our recommended timing belt kits for the 2008 Accord V6.

Critical torque specs for the job:

Key Steps For Replacing The Timing Belt

The procedure demands precision, but the core sequence is manageable if you follow each step carefully. Here are the critical ones:

1. Set both camshafts and crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC). Align the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer. Then align the marks on both camshaft pulleys with their pointers on the back covers. If any mark is off, the belt installation will be wrong from the start. This is the step where a mistake is cheapest to catch — double-check before you remove the old belt.

2. Remove the old belt and install the new one counterclockwise. The routing sequence is: crankshaft drive pulley → idler pulley → front cam gear → water pump → rear cam gear. Make sure the belt is fully seated — especially under the water pump lip — and that none of the teeth are pinched or damaged during installation. Routing the belt clockwise instead of counterclockwise is one of the most common errors on this engine.

3. Tension and verify. Tighten the idler pulley, install the auto-tensioner, then rotate the crankshaft pulley 6 turns clockwise. Re-check the white mark on the crankshaft against the pointer, and verify both camshaft marks are still at TDC. If the cam marks are off, rotate the crankshaft one full turn (360 degrees) and recheck. If they still don’t align, the belt must come off and the process repeats. Skipping this verification step is how shops end up with a running engine that’s one tooth off — and that leads to poor performance or, on this interference engine, valve damage.

4. Reassemble and run the CKP Pattern Learn. Reinstall the covers, crankshaft pulley, engine mount, splash shield, and wheel. Then perform the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Pattern Learn procedure so the engine computer relearns the crank sensor pattern. Without this step, the engine may run rough or throw a check-engine light.