How to Replace Front Shocks on 2014 Silverado | Strut Swap Steps

Replacing front shocks on a 2014 Silverado 1500 means swapping the entire strut assembly — the shock and coil spring are one integrated unit, not separate parts.

The 2014 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 uses a MacPherson strut front suspension. When you learn how to replace front shocks on a 2014 Silverado, the key insight is that the shock and coil spring come as one integrated strut assembly. Getting the right parts and following the correct procedure saves time and keeps the truck safe on the road.

Replacing Front Struts on a 2014 Silverado 1500: What You Need First

Parts compatibility matters more than most guides admit. The strut design is the same for 2WD and 4WD models, but 4WD requires extra steps to disconnect brake and ABS line brackets before removal. Installing the wrong length causes bottoming out or an incorrect stance.

Recommended replacement options (per side):

Before buying, verify whether your upper control arms are aluminum or steel — that dictates separate part numbers if you plan to upgrade. Standard tools needed: 18mm and 15mm sockets, a torque wrench, floor jack, jack stands, and a pry bar.

Can You Replace Just the Shock on a 2014 Silverado?

No — and this is the most common mistake on this platform. The 2014 Silverado 1500 front end uses a MacPherson strut where the shock absorber and coil spring are permanently assembled as one unit. Buying a standalone shock absorber won’t bolt in unless you fully disassemble the strut, which requires a certified spring compressor. The coil spring is under extreme tension, and releasing it without the right tool can cause severe injury. For almost every owner, the safe and practical choice is a pre-assembled strut unit that includes the spring, insulator, and mounting hardware.

Step-by-Step Front Strut Replacement

Chock the rear wheels, raise the front of the truck, and support the frame on jack stands — never support it by the axle alone. Remove the front wheel.

1. Disconnect brackets (4WD only): Remove the brake line and ABS line brackets so the lines don’t snap when the strut drops. Loosen the nut on the bottom of the upper control arm ball joint.
2. Remove upper nuts: In the engine bay, locate the three 18mm nuts on top of the strut perch. Bend back the rubber liner if needed for socket access. Remove these nuts.
3. Remove lower bolts: From underneath, remove the two 15mm bolts holding the strut to the lower control arm.
4. Extract the assembly: Lower the strut out of the tower. If it’s stuck, use a pry bar between the lower control arm and strut. You may need to disconnect the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle for clearance.
5. Install the new strut: Lift it into the strut tower, insert the three upper bolts, and thread the nuts finger-tight. Reinsert the two 15mm lower bolts and torque them to 37 ft-lbs.
6. Load the suspension: Use a floor jack to lift the lower control arm, compressing the strut to ride height. Then torque the three upper mounting nuts to 37 ft-lbs.
7. Reconnect tie rod (if disconnected): Torque the tie rod end nut to 44 ft-lbs and insert a new cotter pin.
8. Reconnect brake and ABS line brackets on 4WD models.
9. Install the wheel: in a star (cross) pattern before lowering the truck fully.

For a detailed walkthrough of the torque sequence and step photos, Monroe’s official strut installation guide covers the full procedure with manufacturer specifications.

Torque specs at a glance:

If you’re still deciding which replacement struts to buy, our roundup of the best Chevrolet Silverado shocks and struts compares top brands and setups side by side.

Post-install requirement: Get a professional alignment immediately after the swap. Ride height changes slightly with new components, which alters steering geometry and tire wear patterns. Driving without an alignment wears out tires fast and compromises handling.