Strapping a motorcycle to a hitch carrier takes 4–6 tie-down straps, a wheel chock, and a 10-step sequence that locks the bike vertical and immobile for safe travel.
The difference between a secure bike and a highway hazard comes down to how you strap it down. Knowing how to strap a motorcycle to a hitch carrier the right way—with the right equipment and the correct sequence—keeps it straight, vertical, and immobile at speed. Here is exactly what you need and how to do it.
Equipment You Need Before You Start
A hitch carrier rated for your bike’s weight is step zero. All carriers in this class require a Class III or IV hitch with a 2-inch receiver. Tire width must stay under 4.75 inches, and most carriers support up to 500 pounds—the Black Widow MCC-500 and Trackside models both hit that limit, while the Black Widow AMC-400-DLX caps at 400 pounds and includes a built-in wheel chock.
You will need 4–6 tie-down straps total: cam-lock straps for the handlebars and ratchet straps for the wheels and swingarm. The table below covers the specifications you need to check before loading.
| Component | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Hitch Compatibility | Class III or IV (2-inch receiver) |
| Max Tire Width | 4.75 inches |
| Black Widow MCC-500 | 500 lb capacity |
| Black Widow AMC-400-DLX | 400 lb capacity, wheel chock included |
| Trackside Carrier | 500 lb capacity |
| Front Straps | 2–4 cam-lock straps for handlebars |
| Rear Straps | 2 straps for subframe or footpegs |
| Wheel / Swingarm Straps | 1–2 ratchet straps to prevent bounce |
For riders who need to haul two bikes at once, our best 2-motorcycle hitch carrier options cover the top-rated models and their real-world limits.
Strapping a Motorcycle to a Hitch Carrier: The 10-Step Sequence
The procedure follows a fixed order: mount the carrier, load the bike, secure the front, lock the rear, and tension everything until nothing moves. Deviating from this order is the most common cause of a loose load.
- Mount the carrier. Slide the anti-tilt bracket over the hitch tube, align the carrier with the receiver, insert the hitch pin, and tighten the four anti-tilt bolts evenly until the bracket pinches the collar.
- Install the wheel chock. If your carrier includes one (the AMC-400-DLX does), bolt it to the rack using the M10 hardware. Tighten fully.
- Load the bike. Use a ramp to push the bike up steadily until the front wheel locks into the chock. If the carrier has no chock, position the wheel centered and straight.
- Strap the handlebars. Attach 2–4 cam-latch straps around each handlebar and hook them to the bottom frame of the carrier. Make sure every hook is fully seated.
- Strap the front wheel (if no chock). Run one extra strap over the front tire and down to the carrier to keep the wheel from walking sideways.
- Strap the rear section. Attach two straps to the rear subframe or footpegs—never to plastic fairings or auxiliary parts. Look for solid frame points only.
- Lock the swingarm and wheels. Run a ratchet strap over the swingarm and through the rear wheel, then hook it to the carrier. This is the step that stops rear suspension from cycling and loosening everything mid-drive. Alternatively, strap from the carrier edge up and over the tire.
- Tighten in sequence. Ratchet all straps as tight as you can by hand, holding the bike vertical as you work. Tighten front to rear, then re-check the front.
- Check alignment. The bike must be straight and vertical. If it leans, loosen the offending strap, re-position, and re-tighten while holding the bike upright.
- Shake the handlebars. If the bike moves at all, tighten more. If it stays planted, it is safe to drive.
Common Mistakes That Loosen Your Straps
Three errors cause most failures. Strapping to plastic parts instead of the frame lets the bike shift when the plastic flexes. Strapping only to the footpegs without securing the swingarm lets the rear suspension compress, which drops the frame and creates slack in every strap. And a rear wheel that is not fully seated can settle mid-trip as the bike bounces, loosening the posterior straps. Install an anti-wobble device on the hitch to stop side-to-side sway, and obey all DOT regulations for carrier mounting.
FAQs
How many tie-down straps do I need for a motorcycle on a hitch carrier?
Use 4 to 6 straps total. Two to four cam-lock straps go on the handlebars, two straps secure the rear subframe or footpegs, and one or two ratchet straps lock the swingarm or wheels to prevent suspension bounce. Extra straps never hurt, but six is the practical maximum.
Can I strap a motorcycle to a hitch carrier without a wheel chock?
Yes, but you need one extra strap on the front wheel to keep it from rolling or walking sideways. Without a chock, the front wheel has no positive stop, so the strap acts as the primary lateral restraint. A chock is safer and easier, but a tight strap on the tire works in a pinch.
Should I strap the motorcycle’s suspension when using a hitch carrier?
Yes—ignoring the swingarm is the most common mistake. Strapping only to the footpegs lets the rear suspension compress and rebound, which repeatedly loosens the tie-downs. Running a ratchet strap over the swingarm and through the rear wheel stops the suspension from cycling and keeps tension constant.
References & Sources
- Black Widow. “MCC-500 Steel Motorcycle Carrier Owner’s Manual.” Provides the full mounting, loading, and strapping procedure verified in this article.
- Black Widow. “AMC-400-DLX Aluminum Motorcycle Carrier Owner’s Manual.” Documents wheel chock installation and weight limits for the 400 lb rated model.
- Trackside. “Trackside Motorcycle Carrier Instruction Sheet.” Confirms strap count and anti-wobble recommendations for the 500 lb rated carrier.